By Barry 'Bear' Siragusa

Hunters who make use of hounds in their pursuit of game will hunt their hounds in every conceivable terrain, weather, and climate. There are hound hunters in the deserts of Egypt, the rain forests of South America, and the vast snowy expanses of northern Alaska and Canada. We hunt on rock, sand, snow, grass, even water. All of these places and terrains offer their own challenges and hazards like frostbite, drowning, heat stroke, broken bones, and lacerations, not to mention injuries they receive from pursuing and clashing with some of the world's most dangerous game.

Most people who have spent any appreciable time in the great out-of-doors have either seen someone get injured, or have been injured themselves. Now, I am not talking about catastrophic injuries necessarily. Everyone who has split wood for more than 10 minutes knows what a blister between your forefinger and thumb looks and feels like. Bad steps can lead to a sprained ankle. A wet sock can lead to bloody, blistered sores on your feet. All these things are pretty commonplace when one is being active outdoors. When you are outside with other people, the likelihood of  someone getting injured grows with each additional person. The likelihood of injuries to someone in a group of people increases exponentially if you involve children. Children have an overall zest for life, lack of situational awareness, and a tendency to run everywhere they are going—all of which show they are often careless, oblivious to the consequences of their actions, and look to us to fix it when they get themselves into trouble.

Hounds and kids have a lot in common. The hounds will run as fast as their noses and legs will carry them along a track—often completely oblivious to the dangers and hazards around them—as they attempt to catch up to something that would be all too pleased to do them physical harm. The dogs are bred and trained for it. It's what they live for, and the best that we can do is to keep them safe from the sidelines as much as possible, have a decent first aid kit, the knowledge of how to patch them up ourselves, and the wisdom to know when an injury requires more than our skills to mend.

The following is a quick rundown of what I have in my hound/kid first aid kit. Virtually everything I will describe here can be bought at Double U Hunting Supply.

Vet Wrap:

You know that thin, stretchy bandage material that sticks to itself that you would put on a horse's foreleg? I keep a bunch of that in my truck. It is perfect for holding compression on a bleed, wrapping around a limb with some sticks to immobilize a broken bone, and keeping them from chewing on themselves while I get them out of the woods and home or to the veterinarian. However, be cautious because it is elastic enough that it will quickly cut off circulation if wrapped too tightly. I like to unwrap the length that I expect to use from the roll first before applying the elastic to relax it before wrapping it around some part of their (or my) anatomy.

Gauze:

Keep a roll of 2-4 inch absorbable gauze in your kit. It will create an absorbent layer between the vet wrap and the skin, and will add gentle pressure to bleeding wounds that will aid in coagulation and help the body stop the bleeding.

Tourniquet:

I like to keep a strip of fabric or a large bandana handy in case I am faced with a wound that I can't stop from bleeding (which can double as a sling in case of a human shoulder dislocation or arm break). Now, there is more to using a tourniquet than just tying it around a wound and tightening. MeatEater has a great podcast about the proper use of a tourniquet via Episode 192 called “Bleeding Out.” Give that a listen as Dr. Alan Lazzara does a better job of explaining it than I ever could, and the principles apply to canines as well as people. A tourniquet is one of those things you will likely never need, but will be super happy you have when things go pear-shaped.

A medical stapler:

These are not hard to get. Your vet may be able to hook you up. I don't use medical staplers so as to avoid going to the veterinarian, I use them to close gaping wounds until I can get to the veterinarian. Getting a dog with a big gaping wound out of the woods without filling that wound with detritus is next to impossible, which is a shame since the risk of infection goes way up. Using a medical stapler to close the skin long enough to get the dog out of the woods will be crucial to preventing infections and other long-term issues down the road. This is not a permanent solution; there are many layers of muscle and skin, and closing just the outside layer of a multi-layer wound without first sewing the muscle and fascia back together leaves cavities that will almost certainly become infected over time. The hound may live, but the extensive scar tissue and the haphazard knitting of the damaged tissue will likely cause both circulation and range of motion issues once it is healed (assuming the dog lives through the infection). Staplers are worth their weight in gold, but keep in mind that it is a temporary tool until you arrive at the vet’s office.

Dog booties:

I always take four or five dog booties with me. If they get a cut on a pad or a broken toenail, the bootie will help keep the worst of the dirt and grime out of the cut. Simple as that.

Benadryl:

Benadryl (Diphenhydramine) is an over-the-counter antihistamine. In areas with  venomous insects or snakes, this is a necessity. If I even suspect one of my hounds has messed with a common viper here in Norway, I will hit them with Benadryl immediately. They may get lethargic and drowsy, but it will help to keep the systemic allergic reaction to the venom at bay until a proper anti-venom, steroidal anti-inflammatories, and IV fluids can be administered. I once stepped on a nest of yellow jackets with a hound once, and both he and I were glad I was packing Benadryl afterwards!

A pair of pliers or a Leatherman:

Porcupines are the worst. Anyone who shares territory with porcupines knows that they have something about them that hounds—and dogs in general—seem to find irresistible. A good set of pliers are a must, especially if the hound has quills around their eyes. It will be unpleasant for all involved but get the most dangerous quills out of the hound on the spot, there and then, before regrouping for a quill pulling party. I recommend including alcohol, both rubbing and otherwise, when you do this. Also, do not clip the quills! You will only be making it worse. The quills will still be barbed, only now you will have less quill to grab with the pliers while you remove them. If you cut them and then end up at the vets anyway, expect the bill to be almost double.

Lastly, if you wouldn't do something to your best human friend, don't do it to your hound. Putting a gasoline-smoked rag over their nose until they pass out before administering first aid is not only idiotic, but will likely get you bitten.

Our hounds are modern day Spartans. If allowed, they will keep battling on empty stomachs through injury until they have nothing left to give. When the grit and adrenaline wears out for the day, it is in their best interests and yours to have a basic set of common sense first aid skills to keep them alive and bring them back to fight another day. Stay safe and be prepared out there!